Leyland P76 Owners 2006

Thoughts on Reconditioning

Recondition Engine

Question

From Tony
Thursday, June 29, 2006
Thanks for the help guys, but i forgot to ask what the usual price for the recon should be as i have been told by a shop in Punchbowl it will be around the $2500 mark.
Does this sound right?
As i also know someone who may be selling a 4.4 that has been fully recond to a 5Ltr . It needs putting back together for around the same.

Replies

By Michael Clarke
Depends depends depends...re bore or just re-ring and hone!
New pistons or use the old ones (getting rid of the cracked ones).
Machining is the main cost, cylinders and crank, rings maybe $125, set pistons $450, gaskets main and big ends whatever they are...cam shaft bearings?
New set of lifters $65 make SURE you get a rollmaster timing chain or similar
Heads...any amount depending on what is being replaced ie: guides exhaust valves, or just have the valves lapped into the seats.
Ask for a break down and then ring elsewhere and compare..... Mick
By Mark Ellery
To follow on from Michaels advice
Buying a engine that has been reconditioned and has to be reassembled is a no no. You do not know for sure what was done or how the rebuilder planned to do it.
Re using old parts is a no no, if it rotates or reciprocates replace, if you don't, don't was your time in the first instance
Decide what you want it to do before you start to ask questions. It is your engine and your money, do not use your money to build someone else's experiment or dream engine.
What are you going to use it for, every day driving, concourse or donuts outside the cop shop, there are a lot of good sites on the net which can give you info. Know what gear ratios you have, how many revs to do 100kmh for instance might be a good idea to start at, if you are only city driving daily maybe 80 kmh is the key drive point, try and plan for that.
Petrol is not going to get cheaper, it never has and it aint about to start. Carburetion information is available.
The standard set up was good.
Some key points
Timing gears and chains, as good as you can afford, is the best rule,
best bearings you can afford.
Best Valve springs you can afford
and only use roller rockers if you have to much money, not enough common sense or want to race the guts out of it in which case let me know and I will send you my address and you cab send the cheque to me
most common brand name pistons are fine unless you want to rev the guts out of it.
With the block, I would want it trued up and line bored for crank and can journals, valve lifters, new liners may be required, the more you take out of the liners the hotter it will run. Cleaning up oil galleys is a must and making sure water galleries are free from obstruction is not a bad idea. Block are getting old now and a good crack test would be a good idea as well.
Heads, replace valve guides, valves if you can afford it, valve springs even if you can't afford to, Unless you are flogging the guts out of it polishing and porting are best left for the trophies you hope to win, ooh a good clean and crack test might be good.
I know it sounds a lot but I have a 352 FE ford Big block to rebuild and the numbers get to a point where you need to do it properly to protect your investment. The FE will cost approx 8k and that is just a rebuild and replacement or R and R parts, gaskets etc.
The last P motor I did was a cheapie and cost 2.5k and was pumping oil and cracked piston skirts after 10k .
When you know what you want it to do shop around and remember keep the specification you want the same for each quote you get, apples to apples comparison is easier than trying to decode a lot of gobbldy kook.
By Joel
Thu, 29 Jun 2006
I WOULD HAVE TO AGREE WITH MR ELLERY,
I HAVE RECONDITIONED LOTS OF P MOTORS WITH NO PROBLEMS
I WOULD ADVISE NOT TO MACHINE THE BORES MORE THAN 20THOU!
I KNOW OF PEAPLE MACHINING MORE THAN 20 THOU AND THE LINNERS COMMING
LOOSE DUE TO THE HEAT EXPANSION, WHILE NOT COMMON, IT HAS HAPPENED!
DON'T MACHINE THE DECK OF THE BLOCK, UNLESS TOTALY NESASARY!
DEPENDING ON PISTONS USED AND WORK DONE ON THE HEAD,CLEARANCES AND
COMPRESSION RATIOS CAN BECOME AN ISSUE!
DON'T FORGET TO CHANGE THE CAM BEARINGS! I'VE SEEN CAM BEARINGS
DAMAGED BY CHEMICAL CLEANINIG AND THE WHITE METAL PEAL OFF AFTER
YEARS OF WEAR AND TEAR!
AS FOR MICHAELS COMMENT ON REUSING PISTONS, I FEEL THIS IS FAULSE
ECONOMY? BY THE TIME YOU HAVE THEM CRACK TESTED (LETS FACE IT THEY
DO CRACK!) HAVE THE RING GROOVES CHECKED AND MACHINED TO SUIT A
REPLACEMENT WIDER SET OF RINGS (THEY WILL HAVE 30 PLUS YEARS OF WEAR
AND TEAR, AND NOT BE IN TOP CONDITION)YOU COULD HAVE REPLACED THEM
WITH NEW ONES, CHEAPER!(REMEMBER THAT SOME ROVER PISTONS FIT AND ARE
EASY TO COME BY).
AS FOR COST, I HAVE JUST FINISHED GATHERING ALL MY PARTS FOR MY
ENGINE REBUILD, WITH A COST OF $800 TRADE, RETAIL WOULD HAVE BEEN
AROUND $1200, I DO MY OWN MACHINING AND ASSEMBLY, BUT I FEEL THAT
$1200 FOR CHEMECALY DIPPING,MACHINING AND ASSEMBLY WOULD BE FAIR I
ALLOW MYSELF A WEEK TO DO IT.
Last updated
Dec, 2005
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